GMG - Las Vegas Weekly

2017-01-12 - Las Vegas Weekly

Las Vegas Weekly

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e've seen this before, or at least we think we have. There's a new restaurant specializing in global small plates, and the menu appears to be all over the place. This type of place typically takes a while to settle in to a more speci c approach, if it gets to settle at all. But Sugarcane is not like those whirlwind restaurants. First, it's a highly successful concept in Miami that has expanded to the Strip. More importantly, there's a relaxed, cohesive force to this menu, even though it's equal parts raw and grilled, and chef Timon Balloo's avors draw from Latin, Asian and European inspiration. It takes talent and thoughtfulness to put these pieces together, and the cool Miami vibes of this rather large dining room plant a charming cherry on top. You don't have to do the big baller seafood towers ($90-$150) to start, but don't skip the expansive crudo section. Favorites are scallop, black tru e, apple, lime and jalapeño ($16) and kombu-marinated uke with charred onions and sesame ($15). Not everything raw is from the sea, either—you can experiment with beef carpaccio and merguez-style lamb tartare (both $17). The whole roasted tru ed chicken ($42) leads a pack of shareable large plates, but those little ones are just too tempting, and more satisfying than what you'll nd with this format at other eateries. For example, grilled cobia al pastor ($17) isn't just avorful, meaty, spicy-sweet sh; there are mashed potatoes on the plate, too. Smoky Spanish octopus ($15) is dressed in bright aji panca sauce, and yellowtail collar ($16) gets paired with Singapore- style curry. Among dishes that don't involve the open re, smashed potatoes ($12) sing with salsa verde and romesco, avocado toast gets topped with sea urchin ($18) and crispy duck con t is mounted on a wa e with duck egg and mustard maple sauce ($23). One of the best plates is a simple vegetable with perfect avors—harissa beets ($11) with crushed hazelnuts, herbs and za'atar-spiced yogurt. Sugarcane proves you can provide something for everybody, with style to spare. If it does have to trim down its o erings, it'll still bring more to the table than most. EAT THE WORLD MIAMI'S SUGARCANE BRINGS DIVERSE FLAVORS TO THE VENETIAN SUGARCANE Venetian, 702-414-2263. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. B Y B R O C K R A D K E Sugarcane's sea urchin avocado toast delights the eye and the palate. (Mikayla Whitmore/Staff) W 0 1 . 1 2 . 1 7 L A S V E G A S W E E K LY

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